Team of The Mountain Academy

After final word, here comesTMA 2...

2010-05-17T00:36:00.002+02:00

So, to all who may concern :)...

Here, on this blog, you can find some parts of our memories from the first Mountain Academy... I hope, soon, I will read some of your memories ;)... Go ahead & good luck with application!

Final Word

2009-11-17T16:36:00.003+01:00

Few months ago, The Mountain Academy has ended. Maybe we will see again some day, or maybe not. The truth is, human mind is capable to forget some details, as names or faces, so I decided to make a short "memory freeze".

Result is this collage... Enjoy!

first mountain academy revival: psicobloc

2009-09-30T10:57:00.004+02:00

This first revival of mountain academy was crowded (!): the only member of the team who accepted Particia’s invitation to go to Mallorca was me.
In these few days of climbing I discovered the psicobloc (or deep water solo), and after experiencing the Mecca of psicobloc I can say that this is an amazing kind of climbing.
No rope, no harness, no Quickdraw, only climbing shoes, swimming suit and mental power. The safe it ensured by the sea, and at every jump you are surprised to experience how soft is the water, even if you fall exactly on your back (I have done that!). But the unconscious fear shows up when you have some key movements at the end of the pitch and you are far from the water, in this case you turn off your mind and hope not to fall; because when you are more than 10 meters high with only climbing shoes end bathing costume you are a little impressed.
The climbing it is never very delicate but rather animal, big and good hooks in roofs and overhangs, you need a lot of power, the problem is when you lose the power but with the people encouraging you, you continue climbing up increasing the distance from the water, and the length of the jump.
Thanks to Patricia for the hospitality and I hope that next year the MAC team will be more represented.

Mallorca Deep Water Soloing/Psicobloc 2009

2009-09-25T20:09:00.008+02:00

Tito and me in front of "Es Pontas"

Porto Cristo "Cova del Diablo"

Harald in "Attack of the spindly killer fish" in the Virgine Area, Cala Sa Nau

Cala Des Moro

Porto Colom

Cala Barques Sector "Sa Cova"

Cals Barquez Sector"Metrosexual"

Cala Barquez Sektor Sa Cova, "Tower of Power"

Michael in "Hercules", Sector Snatch in Cala Barquez

A turquoise warm sea, sharp pockets and tufas in orange-brown, soft sand and a mild breeze, iron muscle-packed screaming climbers...Yes, we are situated on Mallorca’s east cost, the place to be for psicoblocers.

Last year my first contact with this kind of climbing started. Motivated through hundreds of pictures in magazines and videos we slipped in a new adventure not knowing of this special virus called “flinar” (a spanish word for pushing yourself even further when you are scared shitless). This Deep Water Soloing virus comes over you once you tried your first steps in incredible steep overhanging psicibloc terrain over the sea.

This year 3 weeks should be enough to assuage the appetite of crazy routes and to satisfy my climbing ambitions. But I was wrong. You can’t stop, the virus starts to change in a pandemic. Next year for sure I will book 4 weeks, at the end I will probably stay forever...

So far, but what is this motivation build of? Why do thousands of climbers from all over the world visit this little island in Mediterranean sea? I’m still trying to find an answer. An explanation could be the pureness of Deep Water Soloing. A pair of old climbing shoes and liqid chalk and the show can go on. It’s only your ability in rock and the rock itself. The struggle with your mind, with your physical fitness, the withstanding against fear of falling, your pumped arms, just going forward even if you feel totally exhausted and in case of fall you don’t die. In total you have to find the balance between climbing ability and the seriousness of a fall but you can really push your limits. There doesn’t exist checking out of any routes, testing holds and waiting for perfect grip conditions, there is no need for you to trust in equipment, belaying partners or shit rock, you simply trust in yourself, your mental and physical strength and the ability to read the rock. Anyway you develop a better sense for climbing movement, I call it movement intelligence.

The social aspect is another point why psicobloc is my favorible sport, it remembers me on bouldering. DWS brings people together, not only for motivating scared climbers in hard sections. You can feel the community, entusiastic people with different background but same intention: sharing time and practise leisure activity they love the most: pure climbing. It’s not about grades, who sent which route ot who did the hardest one;it’s about fun and the community itself, the xchange between cultures, beliefs and attitudes in a fantastic paradise-like surrounding. Beach 4 (it remembers on Camp 4 in Yosemite) in Cala Barquez is one of this places where you can experience what I tried to describe. It’s not an official campsite, but it’s tolerated to camp there among the pines on the beach. Lot’s of people we have met last year we met this year again. Like an unwritten law psicobloc fans pilgrim to Cala Barquez in September the centre of atrraction. I hope that this little paradise will be treatened politely and with respect to nature that thousands of people more can experience the sense of climbing.

At the end of the climbing trip we had the luck to meet Miquel Riera, the god father of Mallorcan psicobloc. On a cloudy wet day Porto Colom with its steep terrain and big juggy roofs offered the best oppurtunity for climbing. Normally you don't go climbing on such day, you just stay in bed and read a book, but this day contained the most satisfaction. With the intention simply have a look for the rock, we started in wet slippery roofs. But as the time went by we developed big motivation and tried really hard with spectacular falls and crazy detonations into the water. Also Miquel started for a scary route with the crux in a roof in 15 meters hight. As he was about to fall our screams motivated him to push hisself to the limit although the conditions were the worst you can imagine. This example showes me one more time that the right entusiasm and motivation is the stuff perfect days are made of.

For next year I hope all Mountain Academy team members, guides and athletes will join us in Mallorca. The perfect place to live our dream!

Long summer - still student

2009-09-04T14:20:00.024+02:00

Hmm... Yeap - two months passed from Champs, and me still didn't finish with one last exam. Wonder why? Let's analize...

Was July. Just after arrive from snowy Mont Blanc chain, my friends called me for rocky faces in Julian Alps. Peak's name is Špik, and route was very obvious - Direct, V+ 900m. This route has very important history in slovenian mountaineering - it was opened in far away 1926., by miss Mira Debelakova, and with this route, she entered in famous London Alpine Club...

It’s my favourite in this pyramid peak, since it is always very interesting to climb route opened by a lady...

Aproaching in late evening, after 7 hours of driving at mostly rainy day. Forecast predict good weather for tommorow... It would be a shame to spend so many hours in car, pass few borders, without climbing anything.

There is very nice bivouac at the bottom of Spik – nicest I ever seen, so 2 hours of walking to it, is very worthwhile.

A big route - I must admit, at few places I had in my mind - If I am in 1926, where would I pass... In general, after a half, when we changed a leading position ;), it was more easier... But!My previous rock climbing was in perfect yellow granite of Chamonix, and here rock is not so solid, it was hardest thing - to adapt on rock in mental way!

Dieadar at Direct route, Spik

At the top, I was happy, but, truetly... I expected more estetic climbing... Never mind, it will be now estetic going down-1600 m of descent and driving back home, since there are people who are working tommorow!

Was July. Few sunny days on Makarska riviera - Adriatic coast... Kayak - new favorite activity ;)

Was last days of July. My boyfriend got some free days from fresh job ;), so we packed a gear... Hm, a lot of gear (thanx to TMA :), since our plan was - we will do some sport climbing... and maybe some multipitch... and maybe some alpine... Luckily - we left our skies back home ;), and start very long way to Dolomite...

Mobile home - Wander of nature under walls of Tofana

And as we planned – sport climbing at Tolmezzo, just to break full driving day, and continue to Cortina D’Ampezzo... Next few days we spent at lovely Cinque Torre – needles not higher than 100 meteres, but very good start for vertical world of Dolomites! Was that grade 3 or 7 – it’s vertical – just matter of hold sizes ;)...

Cinque Torre

Then we changed this area, for Tofana face, where we climed more commiting route – Constantin-Ghedini, which has very nice line on the arete... Vertical! I don’t know have I ever climb so exposed big faces, but almost all the time I saw other parties beneath us, on the wall.

Constantin-Ghedini, Tofana

So many lovely place, so little time...

Next stop was famous Tre Cime di Lavaredo. Historical places, with extraordinary sights... We stayed there just for one day, (parking is not so cheap) and we climbed maybe not so hard route, but again, as all routes we chose – very classy J - Preuss crack at Picolissima! I remember then, Wilder Kaiser, and more of pioneers of „munich school“... And oh - boy... These people were really extraordinary, even for today.

Unlike Preuss, we descent on Dulfer couloar, but while we were climbing that huge chimney, we were discusing how crazy was Paul Preuss, when he downclimb every route he climbed, so as this! And there, I saw some routes opened by our guide from The Mountain Academy – Kurt Astner... He is definitly truely successor of mentioned pioneers!

Preuss crack, Cima Picolissima

Driving, driving... It was time for „new area“ even for Sinisa(for me, all these was new, but he was already here last summer, while I was at Wilder Kaiser). Val Gardena – valley high up in south Tyrol! Before this trip, we didn’t know lot of thing about Gardena(at the end, we can’t know everything ;), and now, I’m thinking of selling some organ at black market :), and go there for improve skiing! For climbing – was interesting ;). We climbed at Sella, and conclusion is - Very crowded, very crowded, very polished... I saw more than 15 people in 300meters route! Luckily, we were almost alone in III Torre Sella, Vinatzer route. All routes are very classic, and no wonder why are tyrolean people great climbers...

Sella - almost all Torres

And, from Sella Pass... You can see HER ;). Just look to south, where sun tries to hide away until next day...Dream of this trip. People gave her different names, but all mean same – Regina, Queen, Marmolada!

Marmolada

To be, or not to be? We moved from monden Gardena to lovely campsite at Malga Ciapela, where birds singing in toailets, really!Weather was not so great last days(since we arrived to Italy J ), it was raining every day – it was just matter of quantity... And we were not sure is it good time to go to South face of Marmolada. But, in 2-3 days we should be back in Belgrade...

Decided to go to Refuge Falier... It was so cloudy, we saw face only at few moments, enough to realise it’s huge ;). Waking up early in the morning, poor(?!) breakfast in hut, and sea of clouds beneath us, in valley. Similiar situation was above us, we decided to go more near the rock, at the enter of our route - Don Quixote. Weather forecast was ok for that day, until afternoon, when it should start bad weather. This time, unlike in Aig. Du Diablo, I wasn’t with lot of guides, who can help me by making their own decision in moments like this. Just Sinisa and me, at the bottom of south face of Marmolada.

Will weather be really better with the time, or this cloud will stay here forever?!

My thoughts at that time were – Ok, haven’t seen the whole route while we approaching, haven’t seen either that big ledge, haven’t seen far then 50 meteres above me... Enough HAVEN’T for brand new mountain! Sinisa had more faith in forecast...

We found the enter, and then we notice more people are coming in our direction. Ok, we are not the only ones, it can have some good sides...To go, or not? Hm, at least first part of the route is not so hard, and in case of „not better“ forecast, we can maybe retreat? I never climbed unknown rock in fog, and my (leading) part of the route was first half, up to big ledge.

I was quite a nervous at the start, yet 2 more parties were here, with us, and all time I checked at topo, it looked we are on very good way. Austrian party passed us very fast, and they were crazy – noise&fast people ;), and with the polish people we stayed up to top.

On the beginnig...With lot of ropes...

Big ledge. Still fog, but with prediction it will end up soon ;)...

"Pocket wall"

Now, it’s starting true climbing! Doesn’t go under grade 5 up to the end, even in some guidebooks says different... Again, vertical world in full color! Sinisa is progressing quite good, and me – catch the moment to make some photos ;).

It’s all about endurance here... Crux – very well protected, and from this moment, clouds dissapeared, we saw nice blue sky and never ending rock face ;).

Unfortunatly, haven’t see most famous route here – Durch den Fisch,9-, which was freesoloed by very young Hansjörg Auer. Believe me – I had strange feeling in my stomach, just when I saw his poster in refuge...

16h. Last gondole is passing by... And we are on the top! Like true climbers ;) we are the only ones who are going down by glacier(not by cable car ;), but it’s great weather, we are running on snow, so it’s cool...

When I spoke with Tito, he said – „ I climbed just Don Quixote in Marmolada, but you know, it’s nothing...“ Comparing with other routes, it is one of the easiest, but it’s far away of nothing! At least for me ;)... While we walking down, Sinisa was satisfied, and start speaking about Tiempo Moderne... Me... Happy and quite ;)!

Ps.We ate very good carbonara at Passo Fedeia, for all „cable car“ money ;)... And back far away to the east...

August. Start studying tommorow... Just to finish with this chapter in guidebook. Just to become pro- at bicy ;).

September. I started. Exam soon. Just to finish this article. And one about Du Diable. And...

Mhhh Gusto...

2009-07-22T17:16:00.002+02:00

Chamonix 09:
Hm, where to start... maybe at the end. Oh yeah, it was a massive party! We celebrated the whole Mountain Academy adventure at the most awesome bar in Chamonix with a delicious buffet and booze; lots of booze. Everyone danced till the break of dawn and we watched Bertrand’s movies and David’s pictures from the academy on a big screen…
All great memories when you see this overwhelming stuff!
From sport climbing in Austria to ice climbing in la Argentiere; from ski mountaineering on the Mount Blanc Massive to trad climbing in Morocco…
Yes, we did a lot, we learned a lot and we collected unique experiences.
As well in this last stage at Chamonix:
One day, better to say one early morning, Jerome and I took the first cable car to reach Aiguilles du Midi. Our mission that day: an about 200m long icey gully which ends on the half way of the Cosmique ridge.
And the best was that you don’t have any meter of approach, because exactly when you exit the Midi station you start abseiling down to reach the starting point of the climb. Which is funny, because two third of all people who arrive with the cable car are Japanese. Japanese who have never been in the mountains before and who are dressed up like being on the beach, with sandals and short tops. And we, well, we were equipped for any kind of weather change and to climb in ice… Big boots, gore-tex wear, even a down jacket, a helmet and goggles. That was a funny picture…
However, we started to rappel and just after the first one you really feel like being in high mountains, in a wild terrain: Once in a wile rock and snowfall or a cold wind breeze.
Nice, I like ;-) . And then the climb…Ahh it was simply great and in perfect ice conditions. A narrow, quite steep line, very various to protect; once we set ice screws, once a nut or a friend. That’s what it makes so interesting for me. Every part was different to climb and to protect .
Pitch after pitch led us towards the sunny Cosmique ridge, which then led us back to our starting point, the Aiguilles du Midi station.
That’s fast food climbing, which suited perfectly this day, because Jerome and I had to leave for one day the academy, Jerome to be at a meeting and I, to write my final exam at school.
And so the story ends…for this time, but we meet and climb again! That is for sure!!!!
Cheers…

The last one, the best one

2009-07-21T13:34:00.009+02:00

How can I writhe in a few words all our feeling?

After a long wait in the airport finally it seems somebody is still alive. In fact I started to speak about the taxi bus who drives from Geneva to Chamonix because nobody is here, nobody is in the phone… and maybe my friends forget I’m here!

TMA again but this is the last one, what a pitty! Fred thinks I’m kidding when I suggest him if its possible to continue. Well, anyway we have to give the others the opportunity to live in The Mountain Academy.

When we arrive to the camping there is most of the team. It’s good to meet all the people again, and also to meet new ones, Fred from Chamonix and Simon from Zermatt. But the best is to be here, in “the Meca” of alpinism. Chamonix, yeah!

We start with the Hyper classic “Frison Roche”. My references about this route came from my girlfriend who climbed it some years ago. It’s a wonderful route who climbs the 200 meteres wall of “le Brevent”, a great line opened not many years ago. The ambience is superb, we are involved with the fog and it seems Patagonia.

We have a very good description here.

The next step goes to discover the old ice in a very deep unknow glacier, I can’t say more things, we have to keep a little bit safe the secrets of The Mountain Academy…

We continue with the “Triangle du Tacul” climbing one beautiful thin white line on the left of “Goulotte cheré” to finish, the day after, by the “Cosmiques” arête. I have been here before 7 times but after this moment I have never climbed the “Cosmiques” before. So for me it’s incredible to find artificial holes for crampons made by… who knows? Anyway, we discover why is one of the most famous ridges in the Alps. Simply magnificent.

Good info here.

One more step goes to the “Albert Premier” hut and the Forbes ridge, a beautiful way to reach the top of the Chardonnet. It’s a special ascent, more special if you think you are following the Rebuffat’s selection and if you can join with some of your friends in the summit. In the descend some stupid “games” in the crevasses but finally we arrive safe.

Aiguille du Midi, definitely is our second home. We go up again but this time to climb the “Pointe Lachenal”. I really love crack climbing and this route is an incredible pure crack granit climbing opened by the Vogler’s brothers, called “L’orée du bois” with the supercatalonian variaton ;-)
The storm is really near to catch us but we escape at the right moment.

One day more and we come back again to the “Cosmiques” arête but this time (for me) will be the rest day but for my partner will be the “Digital Crack”’s day. What I have a problem because somebody has stolen my shoelaces!
We have to wait to buy them in the shop and then fast and light up to the Aiguille du Midi. Tim, my crazy british friend tries three times the “Digital crack” but is too hard for his fingers and finish the journey asking himself “Where’s the crack?”.

We move to the Torino hut and the last day we climb up to the Capucin, the most beautiful summit I have ever done here, in Chamonix by the “Voyage selon Gulliver”. We loose the cable car and we have to spend one more night in the hut of Torino. I don’t understant why some people describes it like a prison. In my eyes it’s really confortable, more than bivouacs!, perfect to rest and prepare for the last hard day, the party day!

#6 - Chamonix

2009-07-11T22:27:00.006+02:00

Another time, I came home heart fulfill. But now, it was the last stage of TMA, and I think that still, my mind is not realizing that… We spent 10 days in Chamonix, magic place with magnificent mountain surroundings. As we arrived, we set up our base camp and according the weather forecast, we planned to stay in camp, for a very long time ;)…

First few days, we used for climbing in easy access area, and also, thanks to Office de Haute Montagne, to learn more about tricky weather in Mont Blanc massif. We also discussed about route conditions and our abilities, with experience guides, who have been working with us since beginning of TMA…

Unfortunately, one more member was missing, and, no one didn’t have any news about Corne. Also, our main team managers were absinth for lot of days, and they were missing a lot :(… In coming days, weather was improving, and we were spending plenty of days high in the mountain!

With great guides and athletes, some of candidate’s climbing dreams became reality…

We climbed gullies, but also spurs, and shinny rock faces (some traverses, too :).

Sun on Cosmique Ridge…

Facing a glacier in a mid-day...

Night walks over de Tour Glacier & Valle Blanche…

So beautiful sunrises over Valle Blanche…

Yellow granite & exhausting needles on Diablo Ridge…

Little bit of bouldering...

Last night big party…

(Still no photos from this night... soon ;)

Satisfaction present on faces of candidates, guides and team management, is a nicest way to end up one chapter, and maybe, begin next one :).

Thanx all!

2009-05-16T20:08:00.000+02:00

TAGHIA FEELINGS

I’m back home, after one month in Morocco, but my mind is still climbing and hanging around in the easy life of Taghia. For my friends and my family I’m kind of a storyteller; I have so much to say about our experiences that I could go and make a public presentation.

So, where to start? Maybe with the car ride to the starting point of the hike to Taghia. Well, it was interesting and also more than beautiful, because when we exactly reached the highest part of the mountain pass we crossed, the moon- actually it was full moon- was right upon the mountains, right upon us... .I’ve never seen a moon shining bright like this before!

But the farer we got the more I had to think about the fact, that we heading a spot from where it’s not at all possible to be rescued after an accident. For one moment I had a strange feeling in my stomach. But at this moment I also realized that we are in the middle of a real, small, but real expedition! Yeah. My first one and this with all my friends of the mountain academy and the great support from the mountain guides. Well, that made me feel secure again!

Now I’ve just described one special tiny moment out of thousands during our Taghia experience...

For sure I’ll return to this spectacular place. Maybe with Ferran...because we have some unfinished business left. I just say, that it is an ancient route and if you want to repeat, the guide book says, you need more than 70 pitons! And so far no one climbed it after it was made up!!! So, you see how rare, interesting and special Taghia is for rock climbers ;-)

And for sure, I know what to bring to Taghia next time: One rucksack with my stuff and one, big one just filled with candies and bracelets. All the nice kids will be crazy about it. You can make them happy just with one piece of lollypop... .I do exactly remember one girl’s face, as I gave my small bracelet to her: she was overwhelmed; I can hardly think about anyone smiling like this. The feeling was superb. And just because this little bracelet, which I bought for less the 50cents before...

Life Of Berbers

2009-05-15T13:24:00.005+02:00

When we first arrived to the deep canyons of Taghia, I was looking at those native people there, building their houses in the center of nowhere, at the place where it is hard to raise any plants, keep animals and everyday life is the struggle in cold, wind and dust. Why do these people live here, I asked myself for several times...

We had a chance to stay there for one week, climbing around, but as well sharing living with Berbers and to feel a bit how is it to live such a simple lives. Lives without cars, televisions, newspaper, supermarkets and all those products of modern society without which we can not imagine our lifes anymore.

Even though we came there to climb and so we did, climbing on marvelous rock, beautiful limestone, long a and superb routes in great and picturesque surroundings, the more I got from this trip was the regeneration of mind. In a couple days in this place, man sees a world a bit different. You see how few you really need in life. Some sleep in the night, a bit of simple food, then the sun to shine in your face and couple of friends around to make you smile. That`s it. No money, no information, no greed, no envy. You can feel then the essence of life.

And then I got it. I know now why Berbers live there. Because they are happy there. They`ve got their lives and love for others over there and that`s all they need. They raise their kids, work for living and enjoy the pure life. Happy people.
But then you see the civilization changing their lives, making their lives more similar to ours, changing their values and creating new needs. And I`m just affraid that with the satelite TV`s, Coke, candies and other useless things, also the greed and envy will come and change their lives forever...

It’s so good to be part of The Mountain ACademy!

2009-05-07T14:03:00.003+02:00

5th stage has finished 2-3 weeks ago, and me still dreaming about this magic place. Far away from all modern comfort, yet still very friendly and calm. During our week in Taghia, happened so many things in my mind… For a first time, a climbing place left stronger impression than just climbing. When I’m speaking with my friends here in Belgrade, I even forgot to mention routes I climbed… Ok, at the end, I just pass info about how I improve my level J - just because easiest route in Taghia was like a dream goal for me few months ago...

But more time I speak about all strange things I saw & experienced. For example, all buildings are painted in color of red, as I heard later – symbolic , because of red sand which is transported by wind from the desert… People in Taghia are far away from modern civilization – one day driving off-road piste from capital, but they are using solar cells and water - powered system for electricity. And drinking of Coca-Cola J. Of course, they are not the richest people in this capitalistic society, and result is less stressful life, but you cannot have everything in same time.

I think it was a great experience for the whole team, to leave “invisible” boundaries of Europe, and for a change, to see life from another perspective. Working just for survive, without any material pleasure… Days without watches and electronically devices, gave us lot of time, beside climbing, to speak with each other about so many topics for usually “we never have time”, and get to know more, and relax from all stress back home.

So, since me got back home, I’m trying to adopt “Inch Allah” way of life, and stop pressing myself with all every day crisis…

Baraka

2009-04-29T18:44:00.001+02:00

When you have the opportunity to travel out of Europe, to the “second” or the “third” world you have to be insensible to come back home with no changes on your mind.
We are fortunate people, we must to be happy people, we try to be better people...

Morocco is really near Europe, near Spain, but is so different! Taghia is a hidden valley in the hearth of Atlas. Only 3 hundred people live there (best said survive). To arrive Taghia you have to walk two or three hours… no teachers want to do this, so the school is still waiting for one teacher with no problems to walk. But the water gives life to the valley.

Past April we have traveled to this little town with The Mountain Academy team maybe because there you can find some of the most beautiful sport long climbing in the world or maybe because there you can change a little bit your life and open your mind...

Baraka, the circle is closed

It’s impossible to describe all the impressions I have carried in my bag so I will explain you one of the most special moments for me.
It was the 7th day when Tito, Christian and me decide to follow the Baraka way, directly to the stars of the Oujdad. Baraka is a classic 680 meteres route in the west face of the Oujdad. Is one of the easier climbing routes in Taghia and one of the most recommended vertical walks to go up to the summit of Oujdad. In Sufi Baraka means “breath of life” but for me also means one of the most shocking films I have ever seen.
It’s a film with no words, only images. Instead of a story or plot, the film uses themes to present new perspectives and evoke emotion purely through cinema. The images and music explains the evolution of the earth, nature, the chaos of the cities and especially the fragility and the misery of humanity.

It’s a pleasure to find some sense, even very small, when you are a conqueror of the useless. It’s a pleasure to climb with “Dead Can Dance”, “Inkuyo” or “David Hykes” and remember sounds like “The host of seraphim”. Just thinking about it gives me goose pimples.

Definitely I really, really recommend you to buy the Baraka DVD. I really encourage you to travel to Morocco and I really, really wish you finally have the opportunity to walk or climb in Taghia.

Thanks to the MOUNTAIN ACADEMY we have change a little bit our life and we can see more far away...

back home from Taghia

2009-04-21T13:57:00.002+02:00

I arrived 4 days ago in Innsbruck from this amazing trip to Taghia. But till now I'm not able to find back in my daily life. There exists so many work on my desk, but I can hardly find any motivation for managing all stuff, too many impressions of the climbing trip to Taghia that whir in my head. So I went for 3 days more of climbing at home instead of arrange my university affairs.

It seemed I internalised the mood of the local people (Berber) of Taghia: In Shallah!

About our climbing trip and Taghia I don't know where to start. To describe these beautiful place we have to wait for the pictures, but I hope they are coming soon...to round this post off.

But so far, we climbed a lot in the red brown and very sharp limestone. If you would see our hands totally scratched and buttered...

So a short selection of the realisations I was involved in:

Paroi des Sources: "Belle et Berbère", TD+, 300m, 6b+ (6a+) with Jirka and Seb
Paroi des Sources: "Le rêve d'Aicha", TD-, 255m, 6a+ (V+) with Sana and film team
Paroi d'Ifrig, Akka N'Tafrawt:"Canyon Apache", ED-, 280m, 6c (6b) with Corne and Remy
Paroi de la Cascade: "Haben oder Sein", ED-, 250m, 6b+ (6b) with Kurt
Oujdad: "Pilier Ouest", Td- 250m, 6a and the last pitch of "los ratones coloraos" 6b with Sana and film team

Patricia

Taghia Selections

2009-04-04T22:21:00.003+02:00

This is a little selection from a Taghia begginer climber. I have to check with the "local guides" (The sheperds :-P). It seems they climb up to 5!!! Obiously with no rope, no climbing shoes...

STAE 500 m. V+ A1 (Taoujdad)
Voie de la Grotte, 500 m. V+ A3 (Taoujdad)
NW Pillar, 530 m. V+ (Taoujdad)
West Pillar, 500m. V+ A1 (Taoujdad)
Left Crack, VI A2 (Oujdad)
Les Folies Bérbéres, 350 m. 6c -6a obl.- (Akka n'Tzarate)
Le rève d'Aiche 255 m. 6a+ -V+ obl.- (Tadrarate)
Au nom de la reforme, 340 m. 6c -6b obl.- (Taoujdad)
Canyor Apache, 355 m. 6c+ 6b obl.- (Timrazine Canyon)
Vía del Sostre, 700 m. V+ A3 (Tagoujimt n'tsouïant)
Teixonera, 290 m. 6a+ (Tagoujimt n'tsouïant)
Istrid Astrif, 500 m. 6b (Tagoujimt n'tsouïant)
Soyez cool, mangez des moules, 400 m. 6b -6a+ obl.- (Akka)

Griaß eich!

2009-03-22T12:12:00.006+01:00

Hi my friends,

time is running and the next stage is close at hand... Yeah!
Can"t wait to see and climb with you again.

I"ll fly to Morokko next wednesday with a friend of mine and meet you then at the 8th of April in Marrakesh.

In Tirol the ice climbing season is almost over and the rock is still very cold...
Yesterday I went climbing at -1 degree; I hardly felt the holds ;-)

(on the picture: "Metallica", 7C+)

My leg is getting better and better and so I hope to be fit again for the next stage .

For the moment that"s all...

All the best
Benjamin

My ice climb season

2009-03-19T18:42:00.010+01:00

This post is about the activity in leisure time of Tito, one of the members of the ma team.
My ice climbing season started some days before the mountain academy stage in Argeiter la Bessiè, by climbing some icefalls in the Valle dell’Orco. After that we went to the stage where I could climb with my fellows, the guides ant the athletes and have fun on the ice for one solid week.
Thanks the training and the experience I got during the stage of mountain academy I had a wonderful winter full of ice climbing. The mountain academy gave me good motivations to spend two months with ice axes in my hands.
Soon after coming back from the mountain academy I did some ice falls in Valtellina, but the conditions were not so good because there was too much snow, characteristic of this strange winter.
After the ice conditions improved I did some very nice ice-climbing around the alps. I found good ice in different places, for example in Val di Cogne and in Val Daone, in Trentino.
I found the best conditions this winter in gole di Gondo, below the Simplon pass in Switzerland. It was great!. The large quantity of water and the low temperature allowed the formation of all normal the icefalls, and also other ones that did not appear in the last 8 years. I went there for two weekends. In the first weekend I climbed the “Buon Compleanno” with my friend. It was very nice indeed. What I also liked a lot was the casualty of choice. In the morning while having coffee in the bar of the climbers we read in the log book that somebody climbed the “buon compleanno” the day before and found it in very good conditions. I and my friend did not say anything, we just looked at each other smiling: we were thinking the same thing. We went there right away.
The ice fall was only 3 pitches, one better than the other, with in the middle one beautiful and delicate free standing.
The following weekend my friend and I went back to the gole di Gondo, because the conditions were so excellent. This time we did the "Titanic". A wonderful icefall with a long approach of 3 pitches. Titanic is less thin but more vertical than “buon compleanno”: three tough pitches very vertical, but the ice was so good that we could put some very good ice screw. Normally the exit of this icefall has a dry tooling pitch, but we found a very big ice candle that we climbed. I like a lot this icefall because is so long, there are 3 pitches of approach, where we did not find good ice; after that the real icefall starts, 4 pitches not so easy for me. When I finished the last pitch I was so happy because my arms were totally dead. Moreover, the descent trail was not easy to find. In this day the ice was soft because there a little warm wind, it was the last day to climb the titanic before the temperature become warm making the ice dangerous.
I finished the ice season in val Daone on “il sogno del gran scozzese” a pleasant icefall with a dear friend, in a very beautiful sunny day, but we were in the shadows of the north side, far from the sunshine. The ice and the gloves were totally wet, a sign that the season is near to finish…
Now is time for goulottes and rock climbing and to train for Morocco!!!
Tito

M1D (Missing 1(one) Document)

2009-03-07T19:59:00.005+01:00

While most of my teammates are doing researches on Taghia region, in between my trainings, I'll need to provide few visas for trip to Morocco. Visa is kind of vignette, whit a „small“difference. Vignette is pass for e.g. car on highway, and visa is pass for a people from countries political unsuitable. Although Serbia represents geographical center of Europe, its residents are considering as „residents of third world countries“, so for traveling abroad, we need this vignette in our passports...

Forward, I’ll demonstrate how it looks procedure when you apply for a EU visa ...

Scenario :

Usually, there are 2 major roles, applicant (A) & desk employer (DE). Everything is happening in some safe lock cabinet (kind of office), with, of course, window and speakerphone between these 2 roles. In order for this meeting happened, an applicant must to make an appointment reservation (telephone-paid), at least, 2 weeks in advance (in a case of holidays – New Year, 1 May, and long school holidays, even 1 month or more in advance), so all good journeys like – Let’s go next weekend in Alps, and similar, are absolutely impossible.

(Note – The rest of text is partly taken from famous radio-drama(Indexovci), which shows our reality. Point is – A must provide TONES of paper)

A : Hello…

DE : Hello, why do you need a visa?

A : I would like to go to “(some EU country)”, for mountaineering.

DE : Mountaineering? Mhmm... Do you know somebody there?

A : No. But I’ve done some researches, so I know the area very good. I’ll meet there with my friends from other countries, you know, I’m participant on great European project.... (DE stops A in talking)

DE : Hm, give me your documentations...

A : Here it is. I think it’s all you requested.

DE(with a laugh) : Don’t say that twice.
... DE is checking „book“ of documentation, loud check...
- ID card, ok
- Passport, ok
- Citizenship, ok
- driving license, ok
- traffic license, ok, I don’t need this,
- police insurance, ok
- health ID, ok
- working ID, ok
- military ID, ok
- elementary school ID, ok
- bank ID, ok
- any service ID, ok
- degree of elementary music school, ok
- official statement of birth, ok
- official statement of marriage, ok
- contract for grave(crypt) place, ok
- statement of real estate registry, ok
- list of all moveable property and real estate of applicant, ok
- proof of TV subscription, ok
- proof of paid – tax, ok
- proof of father’s paid tax, ok
- father’s ID, ok
- mother’s ID ... ok…Wow, you’re mother is very pretty hear...
- father’s and mother’s marriage list, ok
- 2 photographs from parent’s wedding (one with marriage witnesses, one without them)...Hm, you don’t look like your parents here.

A : Well you know, that photo is quite old and blur.

DE : Don’t y’a... You are blurring... Listen. You must give me your father’s political party ID, if, of course, he was a party member, or court statement that he wasn’t. And don’t tell me that your father recognizes only court of his party... And next, result of your mother’s blood group and result of DNA.

A : Excuse me, please, why do you need that for?

DE : For two reason – first, because I can!, and second – I want to check your identity. I cannot foretell if is it you, or not!

A : But wait... I brought tons of all possible and impossible documents. By now, I forgot why I came in this office for a first place! I don’t have anything more of documents, this is all.

DE : That is what you think! But there is more! You will bring me orthopan of all teeth, and then, I’ll identify you over teeth!

A : Excuse me? What for you need (black) teeth? (phrase)

DE : Well now... Black, yellow, or white teeth. It’s not important, I won’t judge that. So, I want digital orthopan, and upper and lower jaw.

A : Digital?! Ok. Is that all then?!

DE : Mhm... No! I’ll need and digital orthopan of your parents!

A : Well, no way, my parents are dead?!

DE : My condolences! In that case, you will bring me their artificial teeth.

At this stage, applicant, likely to loose his tempers, and starts with curse...

A : You know what...*#*?!”#$)%$”#”…

DE : You are very rude! And you are not even capable, to bring me two piece of paper?!

A : What are you talking about? You are asking artificial teeth and my elementary degree, what are you, mad?!

DE : GET OUT! BREAK-TIME!!!

*********************************************************************************

So, quite funny situations, right?

Just a reminder – I missed #1 TMA, because of visa… It wasn’t so funny to me.

Library visit

2009-03-05T03:25:00.008+01:00

Today I was in the central library from the Dutch Climbing and Mountaineering Association to look for some info on Taghia and Morocco.

Off course I got a bit distracted by some articles about Ueli Steck and Aconcagua....

Now it's just waiting for my shoulder too get better, but finally some time to do some research and reading now. Working with computers as in typing still hurts quite much but climbing is no problem ;-) For now the coming time is mostly skiing anyway

Cheers,

Corné

Mini IceClimbing stage Austria

2009-03-05T02:22:00.005+01:00

Hi there all,

17th of Februari, my girlfriend Sigrid and me visited Benjamin in his hometown, on our Iceclimbing and Skiing-roadtrip through the Austrian winter. Off course we went for some ice climbing! We had been iceclimbing and skiing for a week around Heiligenblut, Austria, so we came well prepared. Our goal today was to climb some icefalls in the Kundler Klamm in Kundl near Wörgl. Because of the obvious iceclimbing hurdles, we decided first to have just a look!

Avalanche danger, 4 on the scale of 5, because it snowed all week long heavily. Rockfall danger, because we went to a quite unsolide area, which is actually closed for some time in summer...

After closer look at the obstacles we first we had to pass a man with the bulldozer, than walk through the hip deep snow. Luckily the rockfall danger was not as high as in summer. The snowfall was more our main concern.

Some iceboudering to warm up

The amount of new snow and the following avalanche danger was to reason we decided to go this canyon in first place. Still also here the snow piled up, with our first object was impossible to climb because there was still water running and the upper pillar was not formed due to warm conditions the weeks before. We went deeper into the canyon.
Then after some mixedclimbing in the rock avalanche fences we reached the ice.
Die Uralte, a quite nice nice single pitch, 5th grade according to the information. But it was a bit easier today.The surroundings were simply beautifull, with all the fresh snow. Luckily we had our Mountain Hardwear equipement with us to keep us warm and dry. After we both lead the waterfall we tried a little mixed and thin, hanging ice on the side and some ice bouldering. By that time our acces trail was almost snowed in again so we headed back to the car. Great day on a day with not so great weather, great to see Benjamin again, he hooked us up with his boss for skiing the next day. Did I mention his boss is Georg Ager, two time world champion on ski's... We had a great day again, with perfect weather this time and perfect new deep powder snow! After we traveled further to Kaprun and even passed by Lofer, looks very different in winter.
Thnx Benjamin for a great time!

Cheers,

Corné

Serbia - Presentation of TMA

2009-02-27T17:53:00.005+01:00

Last night, story of Mountain Academy was finally presented to people of similar interesting, far away in Serbia.

With Bertrand's movie and my slideshow, publicity is finally more familiar with our interesting project! Questions after presentation, showed me that the audiance, except were good listeners, they were and very curious :).

And also, interests about next stages, are very high ... :)

Mountain Hardwear's "Trango" Time

2009-02-22T20:37:00.009+01:00

this post is not especially about an action of our team, but you can get an inside in leisure time activity of Patricia, one of the team members.

If you think our Mountains (the Alps) are not so hard like other bigger mountains, be careful with this statement...

In the middle of february two crazy (in the eyes of our surrounding) people leave Innsbruck for a 4-day adventure: Skitouring in the south-tyrolien alps, the area is called Fanes, well-known for easy skitours and snowshoeing in a beautiful landscape.

Sounds not bad, but the deal was to build up the tent in a central position and spread out from there every day. Sounds not bad, but the temperature was forecasted to fell down to -20 degrees with strong winds, so with windchill you feel like in a big fridge.

It's not the first time camping in cold conditions, but this temperatures seemed to be a challenge. We felt like on an expedition, in the morning huge ice crystals decorate everything laying in the tent, you really don't want to move and step out of your warm sleeping bag, it's cumbersome and you have to conquer your mind to start in the day with boiling hot water for breakfast. But this is the next challenge, the gas although warmed in your bag starts after a few minutes to loose its power, so it takes hours to boil litres of water. In this case a mouthful of tea must be enough for the skitour, cooking and boiling is much more easier in the sun, so you change your normal daily timetable. Brush your teeth, hairdessing and Co., melting water, cooking,...everything is done in the afternoon when the sun burns down.

After 4 days of collecting experience in really cold conditions you appreciate every comfort at your home!

But it leaves impressions no one else is able to relate to . If your equipment is of good quality go out and try!

Some further impressions of the fantastic landscape:

Patricia in artic conditions

2009-02-17T17:41:00.002+01:00

Ahoihoi,

did you already see the movie about the mountain academy by Bertrant Delappierre

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3E90jGF_qyY

yeah...

see ya

Taghia on You Tube

2009-02-11T19:03:00.002+01:00

Hey my friends, watch this... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zowjN9CUK4 It`s gonna be tough!

Aux Chiottes les Bombes

2009-02-11T16:18:00.014+01:00

It was the 6th day when Tito and me were very lucky because we had the opportunity to climb with Neil Brodie, an Scottish/Irish mountain guide based in Chamonix with a waste experience in ice climbing.
To get an idea of the caliber that he armed his two ice axes, just an example, in the north face of Grandes Jorasses (one of the most beautiful north faces of the world) he has climbed routes like the Walker Spur, the Croz spur, the Shroud, the McIntyr-Colton, the Bonatti-Vaucher or the Desmaison route... ¡Almost nothing!

Since then and forever and ever, definitely, we call him "The Lord of the Jorasses ".

The case is his company encouraged us to drive our van to the parking of "Viollins". We had the idea to climb a variant of “Viollins”, one of the most famous ice climbing in the valley. To encourage us a bit more we were warned that the stalactite wasn’t stable, so, it wasn’t formed to the base...

“¡Perfect! "How nice! ¡jeux du cirque!, ¡alé…!”.

Fortunately, the main objective of this concentration was to improve our ice technique... ¡Come on to improve! But in the tactical aspect we managed all the logistic details very well. For example, we divided the route in three parts and in this order: Tito, Neil and me. Of course, the crux was for the father of the idea: “Lord Jorasses”. One wise man climber said me that If you want to enjoy with hard climbs left the harder pitches to your friends. We applied the lesson and was the best option because Neil is the master of the ice and it’s a pleasure to contemplate a very good climber dancing with the overhanging.

The difficult of the route is still waiting for the repetitions, but it’s too hard to stay more than 1 minutes in each movement.

Amazing climbing with very good guys, amazing week with The Mountain Academy team.

Taghia - our comming "expedition"

2009-02-10T10:56:00.003+01:00

Marokko in april.
First it remembered me on great firn skitours in the high mountains of Marokko, firn built by the African sun, it must be fantastic surfing down the slushy snow...
But than, awake from my dreams, I realized we will go for climbing. Climbing in an amazing huge playground where only few routes have opened. A narrow gorges with steep walls on the right and left where solid limestone promise nice climbs. It sounds superb, but there is one point that makes me a bit nervous: the grade, the difficulties of the routes!
When I was searching the internet for information I only could find hard routes. In fact, most of the existing routes start up from 7a, many elite and professional climbers went there to find a playground for trying lots of first ascents and enjoying the solid browne rock under the african sun. Therefore I guess a multiplicity of hard routes.
Ok, someone could answer I have to train my strength, endurance, climbing technique and mental performance, but the time melts away! Not later than 2 month I will sit in plane towards Marrakech... my heart misgives me!!!
Since I started climbing my aim was climbing grade 7a in lead with bolts, I thought this grade would be achievable for me soon, but than I realized it's not always possible to keep this level the year round. In autumn I start with bouldering at my home gym, totally motivated and fanatic, sometimes I went 3 or 4 times in the week. You become soon very strong and you will improve your technique, but than in December when the skitouring and freeriding season start bouldering gives way to ski. The fresh fluffy snow I'm totally keen on to surf down. My endurance gets stronger, the spring comes and the long high firn tours prompt me to stand up early the morning. Sometimes you already back at midday and you go for some climbing in your home crag hanging around in the sun and reminisce about the day. In March and April when the weatherforecast announce "Nord-Föhn", we take a 2 hours drive to Arco to start with the first multipitch-routes for the season. But you exactly know from last year: take you time! Every movement on the rock is slow, searching for good holds, you don't trust your feet on the slabs, all the rope techniques and so on. But after 20 pitches the week-end you feel much more comfortable and from this point climbing comes into the center of interesst.
So now, it's february and still time for freeriding, skitouring and few iceclimbs. First rock contact is planed for March, this would mean 1 month left at the most to become prepared for Taghia in Marokko. A desaster!!!
But we will see, maybe I find Aladins' wonderlamp and I can wish for me the strongest arms and mind I never had to be prepared for our comming "expedition" outside Europe.

For those who are able to read and understand German, the DAV Freewall team was 2005 in Taghia. See their report below:
http://cms.alpenverein.de/download_file.php?getit=1&session_id=4r5s5752qaitojq05co83k8ppn0jjch1&showfile=1

TMA – Stage 4 – Ice Climbing in Argentiere la Besse

2009-02-10T08:51:00.012+01:00

To this stage I was looking forward since the very beginning of TMA. I hadn`t had much experience with ice climbing before, so was very keen to learn how to climb on ice well, safe and efficiently. I had felt that from this week I wanted to get the most.

Before coming to Argentiere, I had spent two weeks in the Alps without having much rest, so first two days I was really affraid if I was able to keep the pace. Fortunatelly enough, the plan was to start slowly with easy routes and then progress as our technics would improve.

Step by step learning by doing worked well and the improvement steps were to seen every day. It was a lot of fun to climb every day a bit harder route, having everything very much under control. So I led my first free-standing ice column (although with a pre-placed screws), my first multi-pitch ice fall in grade 4, my first steep mixed route. And it went well, I really enjoyed every single icy day.

There were two days left and it came to thinking of some serious route. Sebastian, local guru, suggested to try Sergio, kind of free-hanging ice fall that had to be approached through some overhanging dry rock. At first it seemed to me like science-fiction that I would be able even to follow him on this, but then I realized that chances like this come only few times in life. So we went for it.

The first pitch of this climb was the approach pitch, long traverse across powder covered slabs of loose and shitty rock that was as dangerous for leader as it was for us, following him. Seb had to do his best to find out even any protection to make it kind of safe. After following this pitch, asking god for saving me for a few times, I got to the belay and didn`t feel even a bit more comfortable. The belay was the only possible at this place, made in a loose blocks, using all imaginable protection devices. And from this belay, very serious ice climbing was about to beginn. At first kind of pendulum traverse to the right, than climbing on a thin, fragile ice columns. When we finished this pitch, we knew that the difficulties of the route were over. One more easier pitch and we knew the last challenge was to repal across free-hanging stalactites that were warning from being kicked down. Finally we were back on a solid ground and I knew I had experienced one of the most challenging climbs of my life. It was over and from the bottom it looked so great and what more, it was the first ascent of this year!

The other demanding climb the next day of WI 5+, M6 called Cascades des Viollins was a pure joy, even though being far from easy. But from the previous day I knew it wouldn`t be problem for me to follow the hard pitches behind great climbing ice-monkey Manu. Although he said he was to old monkey to climb something like this, he did a great job and led our way through overhanging dry part to big free-standing candle and we had a lot of fun and great finish to our week in Argentiere.

Taghia

2009-01-28T14:53:00.005+01:00

Hola,

I found some article about Taghia in one journal.

................................................................................

The village of Taghia, which sits at the confluence of the Akka n�Tazarte, Akka n�Taghia and Akka n�Kandate Canyons, High Atlas Mountains, Morocco. Each of the canyons is ten kilometers long, 200 to 700 meters deep and sometimes as little as two meters wide; though the rock is excellent, few routes have been established in the area to date. [Photo] Maurizio Oviglia

Taghia, a little village on the northern side of the Central Atlas Mountains, sits at the confluence of three huge canyons (Akka n'Tazarte, Akka n'Taghia and Akka n'Kandate) each of which are ten kilometers long, 200 to 700 meters deep and sometimes as little as two meters wide. The village is home to poor Berber farmers; the local produce of corn, wheat, apples and alfalfa provides them just enough food and money to buy items necessary to pass the long snowy winter. Above the canyons are wide plateaus where Ait Atta nomads, migrating from the nearby Sahara, spend two or three months during the dry, hot summer season (June to September).
Taghia is slowly becoming a tourist destination, but climbing here is thirty years old. In the 1970s, French parties, led or invited by Bernard Domenech, opened the first routes—the obvious long cracks, corners, and pillars. In the 1980s, Spanish parties opened mixed free-and-aid climbs and hard free routes. In the late 1990s, French parties opened two types of routes: the good free climbers from the French Alps opened very nice bolted routes on the slabs and walls, while the climbers from the French Pyrenees opened routes in clean style with very few bolts. Between September 28 and October 11, Jean Michel Arnaud, Nicolas Kalisz, Frederic and Magali Salle and I, who are among this latter group of climbers, opened four new routes. All the routes were established from the ground up, and all gear was placed on lead, including pitons and the few bolts we used to protect the face climbing.

On Tadrarate we established Merci Magali (ED-: 6c, 200m), the name of which refers to our gratitude to Magali, who managed to infect the entirety of the visiting climbers with the flu she brought from France. In Akka n'Tazarte we opened Terre des Hommes (ED+: 7b, 200m), while in the adjacent river valley of Timghazine we found Retour aux Sources (ED: 7a, 350m). Finally, on the Agoudal n'Imenchane, we opened Deux Tchadors Sous la Lune (TD: 6a+, 350m).
Taghia is just being discovered. There are plenty of new route possibilities in the three canyons. One of them holds only five routes, four at the entrance and one at the exit; between them lie ten kilometers of virgin cliffs and pillars. The local water is not potable, because of thousands of sheep on the plateaus. Some years ago the villagers did not like to see foreigners in the area, but they have warmed to the idea of tourism. The increase in tourism could, however, produce damage: the guest-house owners in the village pay young boys to cut trees in the mountains to warm the hammam, the tourist showers. In two weeks, our guest-house owner burned two entire trees just for our hammam. Increased tourism could greatly hasten the loss of what little forested land exists around Taghia. If you go there, have nice climbs, stay with the people and try to plan your stay so as not to damage the local people's way of life or the mountain ecology.
— Alain Bruzy, Pau, France

Who are we...?

2009-01-24T19:05:00.000+01:00

Welcome to blog of our not so everyday team ;)!

Here, we will try to tell the story about... what is The Mountain Academy for us ;)!

So, here we are!